Tuesday morning 5:30am
Isn’t jet lag wonderfull. Anyway, it gave me the opportunity to finish off yesterday’s engine install. Got everything done by 7:30am and started the car. As I expected, the clutch was still not disengaging. I called Jon at Caterham and he gave me a rundown on how to adjust the pedal. If you look at this picture I drew, you can see the before & after. Basically, I need to move out the clevis by 1/4″ untill the clevis captive nut is flush with the end of the shaft. Tighten its lock nut. Then move the clutch stop plate out, leaving about 1/8″ between the 2 lock nuts.
Easier said than done. It took about 90 minutes. My hands were too big. I couldn’t get enough wrench movement accessing from the top, so had to climb into the pedal box head first from the driver seat. The split pin securing the clevis pin took about 30 minutes to remove. Eventally it looked like the after picture. Also took a couple of photos.
Started the engine and successfully dis-engaged the clutch to get into both 1st & reverse.
Randy had sent me the speedo calibration method, so I set that up.
1.There is a rubber button on the speedo. Press that and turn the car ignition on. Wait 3 seconds.
2.It should now be in calibration mode and the odometer display will flash.
3.The first number can be changed by pushing and releasing the button. Holding the button down for 3 seconds will set the number and then it will sequence to the next number to the right.
4.The total number should be…. Number of rear tire revs per mile x number of teeth. Which is 43 teeth
5.Assume tire is 21.5″ dia or 21.5*pi = 67.54″ travel per revolution. 938*43 = 40334
6.Your number should be 0 4 0 3 3 4
Took the car out onto the private road, gearchanges are fine and the speedo reads good – did not exceed 35mph this time.

One thought on “Un-clutched.

  1. Pingback: Clutch adjustments, truck bed liner, and fixing the steering bushing | danielfrye.com

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