A few maintenance activities

While Jeff & I were comparing cars on Sunday morning, I noticed some oil on the outside of the sump. So, on Tuesday evening I decided to take a look. Jacked up the front end and I noticed the LHS front stub axle bearing was loose – there was play in the wheel.

But first things first. The oil temp sender mounted in the drain plug was not fully tight – so I took care of that. Next the oil filter was a little too loose for hand tight- so I hand tightened it a little more. There’s maybe some oil slightly leaking around the oil filter mounting casting, but I’ll wait a while on that to see what the other two fixes have achieved.

Now the LHS front stub axle. Took the wheel off and noted that the lock nut was not fully tight even though there was a fitted cottar pin holding it from moving. Also noted that the inside stub bolt (where the front wing bracket bolts onto), was not tightened to the spec 81NM (60 ft lbs). So, I torqued that first. Then tightened the outer bearing-facing nut until the wheel just got too tight to freely rotate, then backed off to the closest cottar pin hole. Fitted the cottar pin and put the wheel back on. Looseness all gone.

I looked under the back and noted the rear A-frame mounting point looked like there was a small gap, checked the bolt and noted it was not tight, even though its supposed to be 81NM (60 ft lbs). Now when I built the car, I had inadvertantly not included 2 nylon washers on either side of the bushing on the rear A-frame mounting point. So, I found the nylon washers, took out the bolt, then re-assembled with the nylon washers and torqued it up.

 

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Engine & mysterious parts (day 4)

Monday evening.
I gathered up some of the mysterious parts and sent a picture to Randy (the Caterham dealer) to help me identify.
Hindsight: Clockwise starting from top right – Diff top cover (not used), Gear shaft bearing that mates the engine to gearbox,throttle linkage, rubber boot to block unused plenum vacuum outlet, temp sensor to install at coolant outlet, 2 seals for the oil cooler plumbing, bracket for throttle linkage.

Mysterious parts

Mysterious parts

I worked on a few small things that I knew how to do and didn’t take long.. Fitted the following parts:
Reversing switch on the gearbox.

Reversing switch mounted on gearbox

Reversing switch mounted on gearbox

Engine mounts on the chassis.

Engine mount RHS

Engine mount RHS

Engine Mount LHS with ground connection

Engine Mount LHS with ground connection

Horns.

Horns

Horns

Crank position sensor. Note the special alignment tool.

Crank position sensor

Crank position sensor

Alternator.

Alternator with mounting brackets

Alternator with mounting brackets

Engine with enough parts for the belt

Engine with enough parts for the belt

The challenging job was fitting the new sump. The main trouble was figuring out where everything goes without any manual. I started working on this on Sunday evening, but I ripped an O-ring and had to buy a new one.

After putting on the new O-ring on the collector pipe, I was really careful not to over-push it in – I used a piece of 7/8″ dowel as a stop.

Carefully fitting the oil pick up tube with O-rings

Carefully fitting the oil collector pipe with O-rings

There is a wire mesh filter that you need to install through the plug hole.

Sump bung with wire mesh filter

Sump bung with wire mesh filter

I found where the final little plastic part went.

Oil collector, sump & plastic gap filler

Oil collector, sump & plastic gap filler

Then fitted the Baffle plate.

Sump with baffle plate

Sump with baffle plate

Then, I put RTV sealant all around the mating surface of the block and installed the new sump & bolted in place. I put plenty of grease on the mating double-O-ring washer to ensure it did not drop off or move as I mated the two halves – if this part does not go right, then no oil pressure!

Sump mounted on engine

Sump mounted on engine

Sump mounted on engine

Sump mounted on engine

Engine work on day 3

Afternoon.
Set the car aside for a while to concentrate on the engine. The problem will be that there in no install manual or parts list, just 2+ boxes of misc. parts. At least I can get started on the recognizable stuff.
So I spent at least 4 hours sorting through engine stuff. I laid all the parts on the bench and started making small assemblies when I figured out what they were & where they go.
I sorted out the oil filter casting with the oil cooler outlets & pipes, the oil cooler & brackets & the oil filter.

Oil filter casting & parts

Oil filter casting & parts

Oil filter casting bolted in place

Oil filter casting bolted in place

Oil Cooler connector

Oil Cooler connector

Mounted Oil Cooler connector

Mounted Oil Cooler connector

I tried to do the alternator but couldn’t figure out what went where.

Alternator & mounting parts

Alternator & mounting parts

I started working on the sump, after I’d figured out where many of the parts went. But then I tore an O-ring  (spot it in the last picture).  Hardware store is closed, so I was done for the evening

Engine side, oil inlet with aluminum connector not bolted in yet.

Engine side, oil inlet with aluminum connector not bolted in yet.

Sump side, O-rings washer where oil feed joins engine.
Sump side, O-rings washer where oil feed joins engine.

Sump side, with O-ring washer in place

Sump side, with O-ring washer in place

Engine side showing where O-ring washer mates. For assembly lots of grease required to hold things in place.

Engine side showing where O-ring washer mates. For assembly lots of grease required to hold things in place.

Sump oil feed tube with O-rings

Sump oil feed tube with O-rings

Oil feed tube with O-rings and mesh filter

Oil feed tube with O-rings and mesh filter

Oops, oil feed tube pushed in too far and tore the O-ring. Shit!

Oops, oil feed tube pushed in too far and tore the O-ring. Shit!